亮点 
冰岛东南部的瓦特纳冰川(Vatnajökull)是欧洲最大冰川，占冰岛国土面积的8%。
以冰川为中心，冰岛建立了瓦特纳冰川国家公园。斯卡夫塔山冰川徒步(Skaftafell)、杰古沙龙冰河湖船游(Jökulsárlón)、11月～3月的蓝冰洞探秘等最热门、最经典的户外旅行项目都在瓦特纳冰川国家公园内进行。
瓦特纳冰川简介
瓦特纳冰川广袤无垠，总面积达8100平方公里；冰盖最厚处可达1千米，平均厚度也在500米左右。在全球变暖的大潮下，瓦特纳冰川虽也在渐渐消退，但其速度却比朗格冰川(Langjökull)、米尔达斯冰川(Mýrdalskjökull)缓慢许多。
冰岛最高峰、海拔2200米的华纳达尔斯赫努克火山(Hvannadalshnjúkur)即矗立于冰川之上，而冰盖之下则掩盖了格里姆火山(Grímsvötn)、Öræfajökull、巴达本加火山(Bárðarbunga)等数座冰岛最为活跃的火山。瓦特纳冰川地区火山活动频仍，许多地质学家也预测在不久的将来，冰川下的火山将再次爆发。届时，欧洲、美洲乃至世界范围的航空交通、农业生产与气候都将受到严重影响。
30余条冰舌从瓦特纳冰盖溢出，以北部的Dyngjujökull以及南部的Breiðamerkurjökull与Skeiðarárjökull为最；西部的Síðujökull、Skaftárjökull与Tungnaárjökull均为注出冰川。
瓦特纳冰川也孕育了无数河流，其中就包括数条冰岛最大的冰川河。以下是该地区的主要河流：
- Tungnaá (西部)
- Köldukvísl (西部)
- Þjórsá (西部)
- Jökulsá á Fjöllum (北部)
- Skjálfandafljót (北部)
- Jökulsá á Brú (东北部)
- Jökulsá í Fljótsdal (东北部)
- Jökulsá í Lóni (南部)
- Hornafjarðarfljót (南部)
- Jökulsá á Breiðamerkursandi (南部)
- Skeiðará (南部)
- Núpsvötn (南部)
- Hverfisfljót (南部)
- Skaftá (南部)
瓦特纳冰川国家公园
瓦特纳冰川国家公园建立于2008年，随后又有数个地区并入国家公园内。目前，公园占地14141平方公里，占冰岛国土面积的14%，也使其位列欧洲第二大国家公园。
公园北部，Herðubreið平顶火山造型独特，赋予了冰岛艺术家无限灵感；阿斯基亚(Askja)、Snæfell、Kverkfjöll等火山也都位于这一地区。
幽邃的Jökulsárgljúfur峡谷在数世纪前由冰川河切割而成。峡谷北端，磅礴汹涌的黛提瀑布(Dettifoss)奔腾咆哮，被誉为欧洲水能最丰富的瀑布；继续向北，马蹄形状的阿斯匹吉峡谷(Ásbyrgi，也译奥斯比吉)葱翠秀丽，在北欧传说中是主神奥丁的八蹄神马Sleipnir踏下的华丽足印。
冰川东部的Snæfell地区多湿地、山脉，野生驯鹿与众多鸟类安居于此。瓦特纳冰川南端则多陡峭山脊，冰舌一直延绵至平原低地。Skeiðarársandur沙原亦位于冰川南部，Skeiðará冰川河蜿蜒流经黝黑的荒原，勾勒出纵横交错的震撼河网。
Breiðamerkurjökull冰川旁的杰古沙龙冰河湖无疑是国家公园内的明星景点。硕大的冰块从冰川断落入浩渺的湖中，随静谧水流缓缓漂入大西洋；偶有冰块被冲刷上岸，塑造出梦幻而浪漫的钻石冰沙滩。杰古沙龙冰河湖也是冰岛最主要的海豹栖息地之一。
瓦特纳冰川的未来
瓦特纳冰川的面积已于1930年达到顶峰，此后便渐次消退。在过去的15年中，由于全球变暖、温度升高，瓦特纳冰川的厚度平均每年都会减少1米。
如果全球气温逐步升高，冰川预计将在下世纪末消逝殆尽，仅在最高峰的顶点上残余些许小面积冰盖。为保护冰川，人们正在冰川周围积极植树造林，以期降低该地区的温度。
流行文化中的瓦特纳冰川与杰古沙龙冰河湖
瓦特纳冰川的壮美吸引了世界各地的无数游客，也有多部举世闻名的电影、电视剧在此取景，如1985年的《007之雷霆杀机》、2001年的《古墓丽影》、2002年的《007之择日而亡》、2005年的《蝙蝠侠：侠影之谜》等等。《权力的游戏(冰与火之歌)》的北境场景也取景于此。
黄金瀑布(Gullfoss)又译为居德瀑布、古佛斯瀑布，发源自冰岛西南部的Hvítá白河，是冰岛最壮丽、最著名的瀑布之一。
Hvítá白河发源自朗格冰川(Langjökull)；河流跌落32米，历经两级阶梯，最终汇入峡谷，塑造了黄金瀑布这座壮观的双层瀑布。黄金瀑布与辛格维利尔国家公园、盖歇尔间歇泉地热区共同组成了冰岛最受欢迎的旅行景区——黄金圈。
黄金瀑布分为两层，我们也可将其视为两座瀑布。第一层也即较短的一层瀑布高约11米，第二层瀑布高约21米。瀑布两侧的峡谷岩壁耸拔70余米，一线倾斜后又与开阔的Gullfossgljúfur峡谷相接。据地质学家推算，峡谷的形成历史可追溯至末次冰期的冰川洪流。
黄金瀑布夏季每秒钟的水量可达140立方米，冬季时的水量约为109立方米/秒。丰沛而湍急的水流使得瀑布气势磅礴，令每一位身临其境的游客颇感震撼。
黄金瀑布是冰岛黄金圈景区的三大景点之一，许多旅行团也从黄金瀑布集合出发，其中最受欢迎的要属在朗格冰川进行的雪地摩托与冰川隧道旅行团。
黄金瀑布的历史
正因蕴含了丰富的水能，黄金瀑布的磅礴风光才如此引人入胜。黄金瀑布的能量却也引起了外国投资者的兴趣。1907年，一位名为Howell的英国商人就曾设想在黄金瀑布建立水电站。Howell出价购买黄金瀑布，而当时黄金瀑布地段的所有者Tómas Tómasson严辞拒绝，说出了“我不会出卖我的朋友！”这句名言。于是Howell转而选择租用这片土地，以实现修建水电站的计划。
保卫瀑布的重任落在了Tómas的女儿Sigríður Tómasdóttir身上，她雇用了一位律师，努力以法律的方式捍卫瀑布的自然生态。Sigríður数次往返于官员所在的雷克雅未克与家乡黄金瀑布之间，几度徒步走过100公里的路程，与各方斡旋。为了阻止人们破坏瀑布，Sigríður甚至威胁跳入瀑布，以其生命誓死抵抗。
Sigríður的抗争终获成功。1929年，Howell撤回其租约，放弃了修建水电站的计划，黄金瀑布也得以保持其原始却美丽的自然生态。Sigríður也常被赞誉为冰岛第一位环境保护主义者，被载入冰岛史册。黄金瀑布旁的石碑上就记载了她的光辉事迹。Sigríður的律师Sveinn Björnsson也是冰岛历史中的重要人物：1944年冰岛建国后的首位总统。
黄金瀑布景区的餐饮
在黄金瀑布咖啡厅(Gullfoss Cafe)中，游客可以品尝冰岛特色美食；在黄金瀑布景区的商店中，游客也可以将冰岛特色旅行纪念品带回家。
Wikimedia, Creative Commons, Photo Credit: Matias Ärje
Hvannadalshnúkur, or Hvannadalshnjúkur, is the highest peak of Öræfajökull volcanic glacier in Vatnajökull National Park and the tallest mountain in Iceland. Its latest measurement finds it to be 2,109.6 meters (6952 feet) tall.
Due to the fact Iceland is located over a rift valley, where the tectonic plates are pulling apart rather that crushing together, most mountains do not reach over a thousand metres, making it a remarkable sight.
Geography of Hvannadalshnúkur
Hvannadalshnúkur is a pyramid-shaped peak, that is covered in ice throughout the year. It can be seen from many parts of the country, particularly from the area between the towns of Höfn and Vík on the Ring Road that encircles the country.
It forms part of the crater around Öræfajökull, which conceals a particularly violent volcano. It had a massive eruption in 1362, destroying many farms and killing an unknown number of people. The lava wiped out every settlement around it, all the way to the shore, and pumice was so thick that it posed a huge risk to sailors.
The area was unsettleable for decades. When people finally returned to it, forty years later, it was named Öræfi, which meant ‘the area without a harbour’. Now, it is synonymous with ‘wasteland’.
It had another, although less dramatic, eruption in the year 1727. Even if the consequences were not so widespread, glacial floods pouring from the meltwater of the ice were known to have killed at least three people and destroyed one farm.
Wikimedia, Creative Commons, photo credit: Gummao
Hiking on Hvannadalshnúkur
Hvannadalshnúkur can be hiked near, by taking routes in all different parts of the South Coast, but hiking on it requires experienced mountain guides.
The path up the mountain goes through many crevasses, and involves steep inclines over icy ground, both of which pose some dangers to those unfamiliar with the area. Though you do not need to be an expert hiker, a good level of fitness is required.
The views from the top are well worth the effort.
Other sites in Vatnajökull National Park
Vatnajökull National Park is a vast area in Iceland, and Hvannadalshnúkur is just one site that should be visited if heading to the area.
Incredibly close by are two of the country’s most popular destinations. One of these is the Skaftafell Nature Reserve. This beautiful oasis is a wonderland of glacial tongues and lagoons, crystal clear streams, waterfalls, mountains and lava landscapes.
This reserve was once an independent National Park, before the creation of the greater Vatnajökull park.
The second major site is Jökulsárlón, a vast glacier lagoon and Iceland’s deepest lake. This lagoon fills with enormous icebergs, which break from the glacial tongue of Breiðamerkurjökull and slowly cruise their way over to the ocean. This was only enveloped into the park in 2017, but now is entirely protected.
While here, it is worth walking to the nearby shoreline, called the Diamond Beach after the icebergs that wash up here.
In this area, it is very important not to climb on the ice. When afloat, it is constantly rotating, and the lagoon has shockingly strong currents. When on the beach, they are melting and unstable.
斯卡夫塔山是冰岛Öræfasveit地区的一个自然保护区，它曾经是一个国家公园，2008年，和杰古沙格鲁夫尔(Jökulsárgljúfur)国家公园合并为如今的瓦特那冰川国家公园(Vatnajökull National Park)。
斯卡夫塔山的自然景点
斯卡夫塔山地区的植被非常有特色，它们生长在沙地与冰川形成的特色地貌上，给整个地区带来盎然生机和独特的自然风光，游人很容易就会在这个地区内发现飞泻而下的瀑布、静谧的冰河湖、火山特色地貌和黑沙滩。这些多样化的景致也让斯卡夫塔山自然保护区成为了受摄影爱好者们欢迎的景区。
正如冰岛南岸许多地区一样斯卡夫塔山自然保护区内有着许多绝色的徒步路线，也有“冰岛徒步天堂”之称。与冰岛另一个长途徒步天堂—中央内陆高地地区不同，斯卡夫塔山景区内的徒步路线通常都只需要大半天时间就可以完成。
从斯卡夫塔山游客中心就有一条非常简单的徒步路线，让游人可以沿徒步路径通向斯瓦蒂瀑布(Svartifoss，意为黑瀑布，又译为魔鬼瀑布)、Hundafoss瀑布，以及斯卡夫塔山冰川(Svínafellsjökull)，远处是Kristinartindar山和Morsardalur山谷。
对于户外运动爱好者来说，斯卡夫塔山地区内是可以报名旅行团体验冰川徒步或者攀冰活动的最佳地点之一；如果有丰富的徒步登山经验，更可以选择报名难度高的冰岛最高峰华纳达尔斯赫努克火山(Hvannadalshnjúkur)的徒步旅行团，跟随经验丰富的徒步向导，登顶冰岛最高峰。
你也可以选择静态的活动，例如前往冰岛南岸大名顶顶的旅游景点—杰古沙龙冰河湖(Jökulsárlón)、钻石冰沙滩(Diamond Beach)观景游玩，体验冰岛冰川静谧之美。
如何前往斯卡夫塔山
斯卡夫塔山自然保护区位于冰岛东南部一号环岛公路旁，从首都雷克雅未克(Reykjavík)出发，需要大约4小时车程才可以到达。由于冰岛一号公路南岸沿途有许多大牌景点，游人通常都会采取边玩边走的方式慢慢朝斯卡夫塔山进发，因此实际从雷克雅未克到斯卡夫塔山会比预计的4小时长出许多。
雷克雅未克与斯卡夫塔山之间有着许多著名的冰岛著名旅游景点，其中包括南岸著名两大瀑布：塞里雅兰瀑布(Seljalandsfoss)、斯科加瀑布(Skógafoss)；赫赫有名的米达冰川(Mýrdalsjökull)、埃亚菲亚德拉冰盖(Eyjafjallajökull)；广袤的Sólheimasandur黑沙滩、Skeiðarársandur黑沙滩；有着特色火山岩石的迪霍拉里(Dyrhólaey)海岬、以及本身就是冰岛代表性岩石的雷尼斯岩柱群(Reynisdrangar)。如果需要中途停歇、加油或者补充干粮，则可以选择在途径的维克镇(Vík)和教堂镇(Kirkjubæjarklaustur)内进行。
斯卡夫塔山游客中心
在斯卡夫塔山的游客中心(Skaftafell Visitor Center)，你可以找到此地区最完备的信息，以及它的历史、地理知识。你可以了解以此为出发地的各个徒步线路、观光建议、住宿选择等。
在斯卡夫塔山地区也有郊区酒店方便准备在这个地区深度游览的游客落脚，但如果希望入住这些酒店，必须提许久预定—斯卡夫塔山是非常热门的冰岛住宿地点，住宿很容易被提早订满。如果你没办法预定区内的酒店，也可以考虑预定距离保护区不远霍芬镇(赫本镇,Höfn)或者教堂镇(Kirkjubæklaustur)内的住宿。
Wikimedia, Creative Commons, photo by Reykholt
The Blue Mountains, otherwise known as Bláfjöll, are a beautiful mountain range in the south-west of Iceland. They hold some of the most popular skiing slopes in Iceland, and well as the potential for other activities such as caving and hiking.
The Blue Mountains are located around 20 kilometres (12 miles) from Reykjavík, by the lava plateau of Hellisheiði.
Geology of the Blue Mountains
The Blue Mountains partially cover the Mid Atlantic Rift, which runs through Iceland. The very regular earthquakes and sporadic eruptions, therefore, are explained the high level of geological and geothermal activity that this rift creates.
Most of the mountains are now dormant, not having erupted since the last Ice Age, but not all.
Due to their formation, the Blue Mountains are composed of tuff rock.
Activities in the Blue Mountains
As mentioned, the Blue Mountains has some of the most popular slopes in Iceland. Being so accessible from Reykjavík, just a twenty five minute drive away, the region draws those who love to ski and snowboard from the beginning of February to the end of April.
Due to these opening dates, winter sports have become somewhat of an Easter tradition for many of those living in the capital.
The resort here is the largest in Iceland, and boasts 16 ski lifts, and 15 kilometres (nine miles) of slopes. Equipment can be rented on site, and there are regular lessons taught for newcomers. Regardless of if you are a novice or expert, there are slopes for all abilities.
Cross country skiing is also very popular in the area, but should only be done by those experienced, or with a trained guide. Some snowmobilers also make the most of the opportunities the mountain provides.
Other areas for skiing in Iceland include Akureyri and Skaftafell Nature Reserve.
A popular activity that can be enjoyed in the Blue Mountains throughout the year, however, is lava caving. Due to the the volcanism of the area, the plateaus around the mountains are composed of many layers of lava rock.
When this lava first cooled, it did so from the outside in, leaving running magma beneath it. If this magma had a place to flow out to, it would form a lava cave.
Leiðarendi is a beautiful tunnel, formed in a kind of ring that allows visitors to fully explore it. Trips to Iceland’s lava caves provide wonderful opportunities to learn about the nation’s geology, history of bandits, and folklore, particularly the tolls.
This lava tube also demonstrates the volcanism of the Blue Mountains. It was, in fact, created by two seperate eruptions, one two thousand years ago and one a thousand years ago. The lava tunnels formed in each collapsed together at what is now the entrance of the cave.
Much of the area around this cave and much of the Blue Mountains is covered in a delicate moss, that creeps over the lava. When visiting any area with this unique flora, such as hiking trails through the mountains, be careful not to step on it as it is remarkably delicate
Photo from Thrihnukagigar Volcano Tour
Þríhnúkagígur is a dormant volcano in west Iceland, famous for its enormous magma chamber. It is the only magma chamber in the world that can be entered, and has a depth of 213 metres (699 feet).
Formation of Þríhnúkagígur
Þríhnúkagígur was a normal volcano in Iceland’s Blue Mountain range, also call Bláfjöll. However, its last eruption, almost 2,000 years ago, had some very unusual consequences.
After an eruption, the magma chamber of a volcano, now free of pressure, usually remains full of lava that cools into solid rock until the next eruption. If the magma chamber is fully emptied, the volcano will usually collapse in on itself.
To the bewilderment of scientists, however, neither of these things happened to Þríhnúkagígur.
It seems that a rift beneath the chamber drained it of all remaining lava, leaving behind an enormous chamber, that covered an area of 3,270 square metres (35,200 square feet). To give some idea of the scale of this, the Statue of Liberty could stretch her limbs within it, and it could comfortably fit Hallgrímskirkja church.
Unusually, the volcano did not collapse, and it has remained unchanged since.
Discovery and Exploration of Þríhnúkagígur
The vast magma chamber under Þríhnúkagígur would not be discovered until 1974, by an Icelandic cave explorer. Its discovery made world news, as volcanologists had not seen anything like it before, and were fighting to try to explain its existence.
In 2012, it was opened for tourism. A lift, akin to those used in mining, was installed, and visitors were now allowed to join tours plumbing its depths.
Its popularity comes not only from the uniqueness of the tour and the scale of the chamber, but the incredible colouration within it. Mineral deposits dye the walls vivid shades of red, yellow, green and blue, making the incredible space that much more ethereal.
Reaching Þríhnúkagígur requires a short but uphill hike, which can be done by any steady on their feet with a reasonable level of fitness. Tours only operate in summer.
The mighty Langjökull, the ‘Long Glacier’, is the second-largest glacier in Iceland, at 935 square kilometres (361 square miles). For jeep and snowmobile trips, Langjökull is the most popular glacier in Iceland, and skiing and hiking here is possible as well.
Highland tracks
Langjökull is located in the Highlands, and two main highland tracks, connecting the north and the south of Iceland, lie alongside it.
The Kaldidalur road stretches from Þingvellir National Park northwards to Húsafell. The Kjalvegur road, meanwhile lies east of Langjökull and west of Hofsjökull glacier, starting near the famous Gullfoss waterfall to the south, and passing through the beautiful Hveravellir geothermal area to the north.
The landscape of Langjokull
Langjökull is about 50 kilometres (31 miles) long and up to 20 kilometres (12 miles) wide, and the ice is around 580 metres (1,903 feet) deep at its thickest. The glacier reaches its highest point in its northernmost part, which is called Baldjökull, rising around 1,450 metres (4,757 feet) above sea level.
The glacier lies over a massif of hyaloclastite mountains. The tops of these mountains can be seen in certain places on the glacier. It also conceals at least two active volcanic systems, the calderas of which are visible from the air.
The best known of these systems fuels the geothermal area of Hveravellir, east of Baldjökull. Also in the east lies the Kjalhraun lava field, which formed about 7800 years ago.
To the northwest of the glacier is another system that produced the vast Hallmundarhraun lava field, through which the Hvítá river runs in the direction of Gullfoss waterfall. Also in the area is Iceland‘s longest lava cave, the fascinating Surtshellir.
Southwest of Langjökull is the Presthnúkur lava field, fissures of which creep under the ice. South of the glacier is the Lambahraun lava field and even further south lies the Skjaldbreiðarhraun lava field and the Skjaldbreiður shield volcano.
Compared to other regions in Iceland, the area is considered relatively calm, with only 32 eruptions in the last 10,000 years.
Into the glacier
Near the highest peaks of Langjökull exists a man-made ice tunnel, a true spectacle for any visitor passing by the glacier. Designed and constructed by geophysicist and presidential candidate Ari Trausti Guðmundsson, the tunnel exists to allow visitors to explore the inside of a glacier without having to come to Iceland in mid-winter for a chance to see the less-than-reliable ice caves.
Guests traverse beneath Langjökull's thick ice sheet, experiencing the vivid blue colouration within, and gaining an insight into the glacier's beauty, formation and processes. It is the only place in the world where this is possible. ‘Into the Glacier’ tours are often combined with adventure activities such as snowmobiling.
Nearby glaciers
The glaciers located nearest to Langjökull are Eiríksjökull, which conceals the highest mountain in west Iceland, and Þórisjökull. Hrútfellsjökull also lies on the east side of Langjökull.
Between Þórisjökull and Geitlandsjökull is a valley called Þórisdalur. Along with stunning views, it features prominently in Icelandic folk tales; the outlaw Grettir the Strong of Grettis Saga, for example, is reported to have resided here for one winter.
Langjokull and the Golden Circle
Iceland’s most popular sightseeing route, the Golden Circle, would not be possible if not for Langjökull glacier; none of its three iconic features would exist in their current state without the melting ice.
Gullfoss waterfall is the most obvious example of this. The river that feeds into it, the Hvítá, is a glacier river flowing straight from Langjökull; the scale of the ice cap is hinted at by the sheer volume of water that cascades here every second.
The hot springs at Geysir, meanwhile, are supplied with water underground. Meltwater from Langjökull feeds into the surrounding lava fields, which have very porous rock, and flows in a subterranean river to the geothermal area, where it comes bursting out of the naturally forms vents.
While Þingvellir would still have its National Park and World Heritage status without Langjökull, which it received for being the original site of what is now the longest-running representative parliament in the world, it would be notably less beautiful.
Many springs exist throughout the park, also formed by the underground meltwater of the glacier. Due to its long filtration process, the water emerges as some of the clearest naturally occurring water in the world.
Silfra fissure, therefore, is the best snorkelling and diving location in the country and consistently ranked as one of the top ten places for such activities in the world.
Global warming
Langjökull is shrinking fast and concerns have been raised about the glacier due to the effect of global warming. Some researchers fear that if climate change continues at its current rate the glacier may be gone in 150 years. Less optimistic scientists have said it could be gone in as few as 50.
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