野性南岸 | 7大瀑布－黑沙滩－冰川－维克镇

位于冰岛南岸的斯科加瀑布(Skógafoss)宽约25米，高约60米，是冰岛境内规模最大、最负盛名的瀑布之一。丰沛的瀑流激起无数水花，在阳光照射下常有彩虹高悬于瀑布之上，故也有“彩虹瀑布”的美誉。

发源自Skógá河的斯科加瀑布造型经典恢弘，在一号环岛公路上即可眺望到瀑布的壮丽景致，聆听到瀑布的隆隆水声。斯科加瀑流汇聚成溪，溪流中生活着大量北极红点鲑与三文鱼，夏季时常有人来此垂钓。

斯科加瀑布下的陆地十分平坦，游客可以直接行走到瀑布的宽阔水幕边，感受水花击面的快意；但游客需准备防水衣物，以防被瀑流打湿。游客也可以沿阶梯攀登至瀑布顶端，在开阔的观景平台上俯视冰岛南岸全景；阶梯陡峭，请游客量力而行。

斯科加瀑布周边景点

斯科加瀑布位于斯科加小镇(Skógar)旁，艾雅法拉冰川火山以南。游客可以在此游览几座小众博物馆。在斯科加民俗博物馆(Skógasafn)，游客可以参观古老的木屋与草顶房建筑，欣赏冰岛的传统手工艺作品。

斯科加博物馆还设有以“交通”为主题的展览馆，展示冰岛交通、通讯与科技的历史变迁；数百年间，从骑马到驾车，从书信到电子设备，冰岛以令人惊异的速度实现了现代化。

斯科加博物馆另设有咖啡厅与纪念品商店，斯科加小镇上则开设有酒店与餐厅。

冰岛著名的菲姆沃罗豪尔斯(Fimmvörðuháls)徒步路线就位于斯科加瀑布以东，这条22公里的徒步线路将带领游客沿斯科加河而行，穿梭于米尔达斯(Mýrdalsjökull)、艾雅法拉(Eyjafjallajökull)两座冰川之间，进入绝美的索斯莫克峡谷(Þórsmörk)。

斯科加瀑布的民间传说

斯科加博物馆中展出了一只金环。据民间传说记载，该地区最早的维京定居者之一Þrasi Þórólfsson曾拥有一只宝箱，金环原本就嵌于宝箱之上。公元900年，Þrasi预感大限将至，就将装满黄金的宝箱藏入斯科加瀑布后的洞穴中。

许多人都曾试图取出宝箱，而当人们抓住宝箱一侧的手环时，手环突然脱落，宝物便也永久地消失了。这只金环后被赠予当地教堂，成为教堂的门环。如今金环安静陈列在博物馆中，默默无语地诉说着千年以来的传说与历史。

塞里雅兰瀑布(Seljalandsfoss)位于冰岛南岸，坐落于冰岛一号环岛公路旁，高约60米，造型似“水帘洞”，可穿行至瀑布后方。

便利的交通与旖旎的风光使其成为了冰岛最著名、最多游客到访的瀑布之一。塞里雅兰瀑布也是摄影师镜头下的宠儿，在许多风景大片之中都可以找到它的身影。

地理位置与周边景点

塞里雅兰瀑布由冰川融水滋养，与塞里雅兰河(Seljalandsá)均发源于埃亚菲亚德拉冰盖(Eyjafjallajökull)；冰盖下掩埋的火山曾在2010年大爆发，造成了当时欧洲航空交通瘫痪。

塞里雅兰瀑布的水帘狭长，从高耸的古老海崖上飞流直下，而这处悬崖在古时曾是冰岛海岸线的所在地，随着时间推移与地质变迁，逐步演变成如今的形貌。

塞里雅兰瀑布最显著的特色就是水幕后面有一条可以步行的通道。在夏天，游人可以沿着这条步道走到瀑布的后方，隔着水幕欣赏冰岛南岸葱郁的夏色。冬季时，由于水幕后的洞穴上方经常悬挂着冰柱，岩石也全被冰雪覆盖。出于安全考虑，这条小径通常不会开放。

如果想穿越瀑布，游人要有被水气沾湿的心理准备。瀑布后方的岩石与小径也会因水气而变得湿滑，游览时请务必小心足下。

2001年，塞里雅兰瀑布的两侧安装了灯照，让游人在没有午夜阳光照耀的冬季也可以欣赏到瀑布的胜景。

在游览塞里雅兰瀑布过后，不要忘记也去旁边的秘密瀑布(Gljúfrabúi)一游。秘密瀑布隐藏在一面巨大的岩壁后，是独具冰岛特色的惊喜小众景点。

冰岛南岸的另一大瀑布斯科加瀑布(Skógafoss)也位于塞里雅兰瀑布不远处，也是游人们造访南岸必到的旅游景点。斯科加瀑布与塞里雅兰瀑布同高，虽不能像塞里雅兰瀑布一样绕行，瀑流却更宽阔，水力更磅礴，呈现出迥然不同的瀑布胜景。

设立游客中心的小风波

2017年，政府宣布准备在瀑布旁建设游客中心。根据设计，游客中心预计高7米，面积2000平方米，但这个想法遭到了这一地区土地所有人的极力反对，主要原因是游客中心的兴建会破坏瀑布的自然之美，也会对当地环境造成影响。

目前这个建筑项目仍被搁置，当地政府正在考虑减小建筑的规模，或者把建筑地点移到附近的Brekkuhorn农场。

塞里雅兰瀑布与流行文化

塞里雅兰瀑布曾出现在贾斯汀·比伯《I’ll Show You》的MV之中，但贾斯汀在音乐录影带中演示了许多破坏冰岛环境以及让自身陷入危险的不良行为，例如肆意践踏珍贵的苔藓、赤身走入杰古沙龙冰河湖等，大家到冰岛旅行时千万不要效仿。

塞里雅兰瀑布也曾被美国电视台真人秀《极速前进》(The Amazing Race)第六季设为挑战的第一站。

索尔黑马冰川(Sólheimajökull)是冰岛南岸米尔达斯冰川(Mýrdalsjökull)的一条分支，距离雷克雅未克仅有158公里，是距离首都最近的冰川之一。

由于距离雷克雅未克较近、便于抵达，索尔黑马冰川是冰岛最热门的冰川徒步地点之一。另一处最受游客欢迎的冰川徒步体验地是东南岸的斯维纳山冰川(Svínafellsjökull)。

索尔黑马冰川地理概况

索尔黑马冰川面积广阔，长约8公里、宽约2公里。作为米尔达斯冰川的一支冰舌，索尔黑马冰川和米达冰川之间没有明确的分界，甚至看起来面积更大一些。

米尔达斯冰川是冰岛第四大冰川，索尔黑马并非其唯一一条分支冰舌。磅礴无垠的冰盖下实则隐藏了冰岛最活跃的火山之一：卡特拉火山(Katla)。

同样位于该地区的艾雅法拉冰川火山(Eyjafjallajökull)曾经在2010年大爆发，使欧洲航空交通一度瘫痪；根据以往经验，在艾雅法拉火山爆发后，卡特拉火山通常也会随之而爆发，然而目前为止卡特拉仍未有爆发迹象。

您无需担心在游览冰川时会遭遇火山爆发。冰岛有着完备的火山检测系统，如有迹象，政府会及时通知旅行团营运商与附近居民。只要您报名的冰川或火山旅行团仍然正常出发，就说明火山仍处于安全的状态；您甚至可以参加旅行团，进入冰川或火山的内部一探究竟。

让人惋惜的是，索尔黑马冰川的面积正在逐年锐减，冰川脚下的冰河湖也因冰川的快速融化而迅速扩大。冰湖每年都会扩展大约一个标准奥运泳池的面积。预计在未来的100年之内，索尔黑马冰川将完全消失。

全球变暖已经是无可逆转的现实。如果您有幸在索尔黑马冰川消失之前到访，请好好珍惜它日渐消逝的美丽。

索尔黑马冰川成为冰岛必游景点的原因有三：首先，冰川位于冰岛一号环岛公路沿线，易于到达，无论是顺时针还是逆时针环岛都会经过冰川。其次，冰川周围没有高耸的山脉，登顶后可以一览无余地领略冰岛南岸绝色全景。再次，冰川上有许多高耸的冰墙，十分适合进行攀冰活动，满足户外运动爱好者的挑战欲。

索尔黑马冰川上还有冰缝、冰裂、冰窟等特色冰川地貌，如果足够幸运的话，甚至还可以发现天然冰洞。与火山灰交杂的冰壁将呈现出黑、白、蓝相间的奇妙颜色，让人产生登上外星球的奇幻错觉。

索尔黑马冰川下还有一条冰川融水汇集成的河流：Jökulsá á Sólheimasandi。从冰川脚下一路缓缓而流，途径索尔黑马黑沙滩(Sólheimasandur)，冰川河最终汇入海洋。

索尔黑马冰川旅行团

不少从雷克雅未克出发的冰岛南岸一日游都会包含索尔黑马冰川游览或者冰川徒步项目，也有许多以索尔黑马冰川徒步为主题的一日游，一天之内即可在首都和索尔黑马冰川之间往返。

如果参加冰岛南岸一日游到访索尔黑马冰川，旅行团通常还会沿途造访斯科加瀑布(Skógafoss)、塞里雅兰瀑布(Seljalandsfoss)、雷尼斯黑沙滩(Reynisfjara)等景点，时常更长的一日游还会抵达瓦特纳冰川国家公园(Vatnajökull)和杰古沙龙冰河湖(Jökulsárlón)。

想要登上冰川徒步，必须跟随专业向导。冰川向导受过专业训练，对冰川地貌更加了解，能够保证游客的旅行安全。旅行团运营商还会为游客准备必需的安全装备：冰爪、冰镐、头盔等，参加者需要自行准备保暖防风的衣物和结实的登山鞋。

在正式开始冰川徒步前，向导将介绍安全装备的使用方法，讲解冰川上的安全须知。准备参加冰川徒步的游客最好懂英文，能够听懂向导的安全讲解，或者有同行翻译陪伴。出于安全考量，旅行团向导有权利拒绝不理解安全须知的游客参团。

举世闻名的雷尼斯黑沙滩(Reynisfjara)坐落于冰岛南岸，与冰岛最南城镇维克镇(Vík)毗邻。

玄武岩黑沙滩的异世之美为冰岛特有，一望无垠的雷尼斯黑沙滩绝对是其中最美丽的一座。大西洋的滚滚白浪与黝黑火山砂石形成了梦幻般的色彩对比，于波涛中屹立的巨型玄武岩柱与神秘的黑沙滩相映成趣。早在1991年，《国家地理》就将雷尼斯黑沙滩列为世界十大最值得游览的非热带沙滩之一。

距冰岛首都雷克雅未克约180公里的雷尼斯黑沙滩，也是冰岛南岸景区最热门的景点之一。

黑沙滩位于一号环岛公路沿线，路况良好、驾驶容易，距首都约有2.5小时车程，半日之内即可往返参观，也可与南岸其他景点组合。

黑沙滩的民间传说

游览雷尼斯黑沙滩时，耸拔于大西洋惊涛之中的雷尼斯岩柱(Reynisdrangar/雷尼斯德兰格)也同样夺人目光。

根据民间传说记载，这些巨型玄武岩柱是冰岛巨魔的遗骸；黎明破晓时，欲将帆船拖入海中的巨魔遭遇阳光，化为巨石。

另一则传说却道，一个男人的妻子被两只巨魔掳掠杀害，男人追至雷尼斯黑沙滩，封印住巨魔，为这段悲剧画下结尾。

雷尼斯黑沙滩与雷尼斯岩柱还曾在现代传奇中现身：《权力的游戏(冰与火之歌)》第七季就曾在此取景，以求展现绝境长城以北的凛冽风光。

雷尼斯岩柱如今是海鸟们的栖息家园，北极海鹦、暴风鹱、海鸽等鸟类每年都会来此筑巢，喜爱观鸟的游客一定要到访黑沙滩。

黑沙滩周边景点

雷尼斯黑沙滩位于冰岛南岸中段，与维克镇毗邻；如果游客沿一号环岛公路自驾南岸，黑沙滩一定是旅程中不容错过的必游自然景点。经过黑沙滩，游客可以继续东行，前往杰古沙龙冰河湖(Jökulsárlón)，或继续环岛旅行。

迪霍拉里海岬(Dyrhólaey)是另一处与雷尼斯黑沙滩紧邻的冰岛自然景点。迪霍拉里是冰岛观鸟的最佳地点之一，海鸟的数目与种类都让黑沙滩地区难以望其项背。每年5～8月，迪霍拉里也是冰岛观海鹦的最佳地点。

从首都雷克雅未克前往雷尼斯黑沙滩，游客将途径塞里雅兰瀑布(Seljalandsfoss)、斯科加瀑布(Skógafoss)、艾雅法拉冰川火山(Eyjafjallajökull)、米尔达斯冰川(Mýrdalsjökull)等自然景点；从黑沙滩继续前行，游客将进入瓦特纳冰川国家公园(Vatnajökull)，到访斯卡夫塔山自然保护区(Skaftafell)、冰河湖、钻石冰沙滩等闻名遐迩的自然胜景。

游览黑沙滩的潜在危险与注意事项

游览雷尼斯黑沙滩时，游客需务必注意自身安全，以防发生意外与危险。大西洋的波涛凶悍强劲，浪高且急，极易将靠近海浪的游客卷入寒冷的海中。

雷尼斯黑沙滩与南极洲一线贯通，中间没有任何陆块，海浪得以积聚数千公里的能量；无论天气是平和还是狂暴，黑沙滩海域时刻都会产生这种突如其来的大浪，将一切沙滩上的人与物恣意卷入海洋。

游客必须远离海浪，与海洋至少保持30公里的距离。

Gljúfrabúi (or Canyon Dweller) is a beautiful waterfall located at Hamragarðar in South Iceland, close to its better known counterpart, Seljalandsfoss waterfall. It is one of the hidden gems of the South Coast, and thus a great spot for photographers and those seeking to admire nature in peace.

Image from Regína Hrönn Ragnarsdóttir

Nature of Gljúfrabúi

The 40 metre (131 feet) high Gljúfrabúi is hidden behind a huge cliff which faces out towards Iceland’s South Coast and the Atlantic Ocean. Because of its decent ‘hiding place’, it is overlooked by most travellers, in spite of the fact that thousands of people visit Seljalandsfoss, less than a kilometre away, every day.

A stream, the Gljúfurá, runs through a cleft in the cliff, and those who wish to approach the falls must do so by wading through these waters.

After a few metres of travelling through a narrow valley, the space will open, and here, Gljúfrabúi tumbles before a great boulder, which it is possible to climb upon for some great photos. With the open sky above, mossy walls, silver mist and black lava, it is one of Iceland’s most breathtaking gems, seemingly from a fantasy story.

This is especially the case on sunny days, where rainbows curve through the water’s spray.

It is also possible to see Gljúfrabúi from above. There is a steep path that allows you to clamber up the cliff, at some points with the aid of ropes.

Both these routes are mildly challenging and have their dangers, so only attempt to reach Gljúfrabúi if you are in a decent state of health and confident on your feet. They should only be attempted when there is not ice on the ground, and in the case of the path up the cliff, when it is wet and slippery.

Surroundings of Gljúfrabúi

Gljúfrabúi is in one of the most travelled regions of Iceland, on the South Coast along the Ring Road. This means that it is very easy to reach, either alone or on a guided tour, just an hour and a half’s drive from the capital.

As mentioned, Gljúfrabúi is about ten minutes walk north Seljalandsfoss. Interestingly, this is one of the country’s most famous and photographed waterfalls, due to the fact it falls from a concave cliff which allows visitors to fully encircle the cascade.

Seljalandsfoss is taller than Gljúfrabúi at 60 metres (196 metres), with a similar waterflow. Both are fed by the meltwater of the glacier Eyjafjallajökull, the volcano beneath which caused widespread problems to air traffic across Europe when it erupted in 2010.

A much more powerful waterfall can be found just half hour’s drive or so along the Ring Road, called Skógafoss. This is a similar height to Seljalandsfoss, but up to 30 metres (98 feet) wide after a heavy rain.

Another popular site in the area is Sólheimajökull, the most popular glacial outlet in Iceland for glacier hiking. This feature is on Sólheimasandur, a vast expanse of volcanic ash that resembles a black sand desert.

Those who travelling a little further along the South Coast will reach the cliffs of Dyrhólaey, with their beautiful rock arch and resident puffins in summer, and the beach of Reynisfjara, renowned for it powerful waves and basalt sea-stacks, called Reynisdrangar.

All these sites can be visited with ease within a day.

The South Coast of Iceland is the country's most visited sightseeing route, along with the Golden Circle.

This incredible shoreline stretches from the greater Reykjavík area in the west to the magnificent Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon in the east and is lined with countless natural wonders such as cascading waterfalls, volcanoes, black sand beaches and glaciers.

Geography, Nature & Wildlife

The South Coast is the most easily accessible part of the country’s southern region, found along the Route 1 highway (the Ring Road), which encircles Iceland. The area consists of a diverse lowland that transitions between, marshlands, bays, cultivated pastures, estuaries and black sand deserts.

Underneath the soil rests a vast lava field, known as Þjórsárhraun. Its edges reach several hundred metres offshore where the ocean waves crash upon them, thereby protecting the lowland from the invasion of the sea. This results in the South Coast being unusually lacking in the deep fjords that so distinctly characterise the rest of Iceland's shoreline.

The region boasts vibrant bird life during all seasons. Freshwater birds nest in the marshlands and around the estuaries, while seabirds flock around the cliffs of Reynisdrangar and Dyrhólaey, including the North Atlantic puffin between May and August. Some species stay throughout the harsh Icelandic winter, including the northern diver, the loom and various species of gulls and ducks.  

Seals are often found along the shore, particularly around the Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon and Diamond Beach. As with everywhere in Iceland, you should always keep an eye out to sea, as whales and dolphins reside all along its coastline.

Highlights of the South Coast

The South Coast offers an unprecedented array of natural wonders that draw thousands of visitors each day.

When driving the route from Reykjavík city, the first major features are the two great waterfalls of Seljalandsfoss and Skógafoss, which sit beneath the notorious subglacial volcano, Eyjafjallajökull. On clear days from these beautiful cascades, the Westman Islands can be seen across the ocean.

A little further down the route is the glacier Mýrdalsjökull, which covers one of Iceland’s most explosive volcanoes, Katla. Many glacier hikes are taken here upon the outlet of Sólheimajökull.

The aforementioned Dyrhólaey cliffs are next, home to many seabirds. Even if you come outside of puffin season, they are well worth a visit; jutting out to sea is an enormous rock arch of the same name, which you can marvel at from many angles.

Adjacent to the village of Vík is the famous black-sand beach, Reynisfjara, home to the rock pillars of Reynisdrangar, said to be two trolls frozen by the light of the sun. Though beautiful, this area is gaining notoriety for its dangerous sneaker waves, so visitors should be sure to stay well away from the edge of the water, even on a calm, still day.

There are no landmasses between Reynisfjara beach and the continent of Antarctica, so you can imagine how the waves can build momentum.

After passing through Vík, you will cross the glacial sand plain of Skeiðarársandur, before entering Vatnajökull National Park, home to the largest ice cap in Europe, Vatnajökull itself, dozens of glacial outlets and the magnificent Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon.

While almost all of these sites can be seen from Route 1, they make up a fraction of what the South Coast has to offer. The vast sand plains of Sólheimasandur are home to a crashed DC-3 Plane Wreck, and within the Vatnajökull National Park is the dramatic Skaftafell Nature Reserve.

Less than a kilometre from Seljalandsfoss is the hidden gem of Gljúfrabúi waterfall, and short distances from Jökulsárlón you will find the Diamond Beach, where icebergs wash on the black-sand shore, and another glacier lagoon, Fjallsárlón.

Photo by Regína Hrönn Ragnarsdóttir.

Kvernufoss is a waterfall with a drop of 30 metres (98 feet) in South Iceland. Considered a hidden gem, it rests in a gorge on the South Coast, close to one of Iceland’s most visited waterfalls Skógafoss. 

Surroundings 

After having visited the highly popular South Coast attractions of Seljalandsfoss and Skógafoss, most people continue along the Ring Road to their next destination. East of Skógafoss, however, visitors to the area should take time to visit the stunning Kvernufoss. Starting out from behind Skógar Museum, a hiking trail of approximately 20 minutes leads into the gorge Kvernugil by the river Kverná. The river is not to be confused with Kverná on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula.

Once the waterfall is reached, you can walk all the way behind it and look out through its misty cascade. During the winter season, however, the slippery ice of the gorge and the risk of falling icicles prevent you from walking behind the falls.