奢华观鲸体验－冰岛游艇观鲸旅行团｜雷克雅未克出发

雷克雅未克(Reykjavík)是冰岛的首都，亦是世界上位置最北的首都。

相比其他北欧都市，冰岛首都雷克雅未克更多了几分静谧、几分安详(市区人口约为12万，大雷克雅未克地区人口也仅为20万)，但这座城市充满了活力与惊喜，每年都吸引无数游客来此体验世界尽头的另一种生活。雷克雅未克是冰岛的政治、经济与文化中心，也是世界上最干净、最安全的城市。

雷克雅未克的地理位置

雷克雅未克位于冰岛西南部，临法赫萨湾(Faxaflói)而建。冰川、地震与火山喷发运动共同塑造了这一地区的地理地貌，这一地区也富含地热能，要知道“雷克雅未克”的意思就是“冒烟的海湾”。

雷克雅未克的大部分地区在大冰期时被掩埋于一座延伸至奥尔塔内斯半岛(Álftanes)的广袤冰川之下，其余部分则被海洋淹没。大冰期末期，陆块上升，冰川脱落，这片土地才得以浮出地表。

雷克雅未克的海岸线曲折而绵长，点缀着众多半岛、海湾、海峡以及维迪岛(Viðey)等众多岛屿，海湾中还有多种海鸟与鲸鱼栖居。一座起伏有致的山峰点缀着雷克雅未克海岸，在不同季节变幻出不同的美，这就是著名的埃斯亚山(Esjan)。

埃斯亚山是雷克雅未克地区的最高山峰，颇受徒步与登山爱好者的钟爱。从雷克雅未克海湾远眺，Akrafjall与Skarðsheiði也将映入视线。晴朗天气中，甚至连斯奈山半岛(Snæfellsnes)上的斯奈菲尔冰川也会在天边浮现。

Elliðaárdalur山谷中的Elliðaá河是雷克雅未克的最大河流，也是冰岛钓三文鱼的最佳地点之一。

雷克雅未克的交通

冰岛没有火车与地铁，最常见的交通工具是汽车与公交车。雷克雅未克还有两处港口：位于市中心的旧港与位于城市东部的Sundahöfn港。

雷克雅未克市区内有一座国内机场，位于Vatnsmýrin，与市中心以及珍珠楼Perlan所在的Öskjuhlíð山相距不远。冰岛的国际机场是位于雷克雅内斯半岛(Reykjanes)上的凯夫拉维克国际机场(Keflavík)，距离首都约有50公里。

游客可以选择租自行车、汽车或吉普车在雷克雅未克旅行，或直接参加从首都出发的旅行团。如果只是参观市中心地区的城市地标景点，可以选择直接步行或乘坐公交车。

雷克雅未克旅行活动

雷克雅未克是著名的北欧文学艺术之都，全年都会举办各种特色活动与节日。无论哪个月份来雷克雅未克旅行，都有机会邂逅来自世界各地的名人、艺术家、音乐家、歌手、作家、诗人等——例如比约克、胜利玫瑰Sigur Rós等冰岛知名音乐人；以及《宇宙天使》的作者埃纳尔·茂尔·古德蒙德松(Einar Már Guðmundsson)、曾与比约克合作作词且如今蜚声国际文坛的诗人松(Sjón)等。

冰岛电波音乐节、Sónar音乐节、秘密夏至音乐节、雷克雅未克同志骄傲游行(Gay Pride)、雷克雅未克国际电影节RIFF、雷克雅未克文学节、文化之夜、雷克雅未克艺术节、美食欢乐节(Food & Fun)、雷克雅未克时尚周等大大小小的节日每年都会如期而至。

想要更加深入地领略酷炫的冰岛文化历史，可以参观城市中的博物馆、艺术馆与摄影展览，在咖啡厅、酒吧或Harpa音乐厅听音乐现场演出，到城市旧港与Grótta灯塔观日落、等极光，在Laugavegur购物主街上购买旅行纪念品，或者去逛逛惊喜无限的跳蚤市场。游客还可以出海参加观鸟、观鲸旅行团，或者登上维迪岛，参观岛上的历史遗迹与艺术装置。阅读这篇《玩转雷克雅未克：十大必做之事》深度攻略，像冰岛本地人一样体验世界最北首都生活。

冰岛议会大厦Alþingi前的Austurvöllur广场上伫立着冰岛独立“国父”Jón Sigurðsson的雕像，一街之隔便是雷克雅未克的主教座堂(Dómkirkjan)。广场周围环绕着多家餐厅、酒吧与咖啡厅。Austurvöllur是冰岛有名的抗议集会地点，2008年冰岛金融危机时愤怒的市民就曾齐聚广场抗议示威。

沿Lækjargata街漫步，游客将到达托宁湖(Tjörnin)与市政厅。天鹅、鸭子、海鸥等水鸟常年在湖泊中栖息，托宁湖喂鸭子也是在雷克雅未克旅行的必做之事之一。湖滨公园是休憩、散步、遛狗的好去处，夏季时湖边还会不时举办露天音乐会。

冰岛大学、北欧之屋(Nordic House)、Vatnsmýrin湿地与托宁湖仅一街之隔。各种与北欧有关的音乐、文学、艺术活动时常在北欧之屋上演，而其旁的Vatnsmýrin自然保护区则是许多鸟类的重要栖息地。

沿海的雷克雅未克虽没有地中海式的阳光海滩，但天气良好时，由地热加热的Nauthólsvík海滩也是个游泳、晒太阳的好去处。城市中还有多家地热温泉泳池，其中最大一座位于Laugardalur，与Ásmundarsafn雕塑展览馆、雷克雅未克动物园、植物园都相距不远。

另一座海滩Ægissíða位于雷克雅未克的西城区(Vesturbær)，开阔的海景与石滩景色令人心旷神怡，在海滩上可以远眺到冰岛总统府Bessastaðir。

Skólavörðuholt山丘上的哈尔格林姆斯大教堂(Hallgrímskirkja)是雷克雅未克的另一座必游城市地标；购票登上教堂尖塔，游客可以一览雷克雅未克城市全景，将可爱的北欧彩色房顶尽收眼底。

建于Öskjuhlíð山上的珍珠楼是鸟瞰雷克雅未克城市全景的另一个好去处，珍珠楼内也设有咖啡厅与冰岛自然展览。176000棵树木环绕着珍珠楼，营造了葱茏而静谧的环境。游客可以一边在林中骑车、漫步，一边呼吸清新的森林空气。

雷克雅未克是许多游客游览冰岛的大本营。许多旅行团都从首都接团出发，黄金圈、蓝湖温泉等景点也与首都相距不远，自驾距离适中。首都范围内的Heiðmörk自然保护区以及城市外围的蓝山(Bláfjöll)也是颇受欢迎的自然景点。

最详尽、最专业的雷克雅未克行程指南，尽在雷克雅未克攻略页面。

Faxaflói is a large bay in west Iceland, between the Reykjanes and Snӕfellsnes Peninsula. It faces Reykjavík, and is a hot spot for puffin and whale watching.

Activities in Faxaflói Bay

Whale watching tours head into Faxaflói from Reykjavík throughout the year. Throughout the summer, the most commonly seen species are Minke and Humpback whales, while Harbour Porpoises and White-Beaked Dolphins are seen year-round. Other species are seen on occasion, including Orcas and Blue Whales.

From May to September, some of these tours include a puffin-watching segment to the islands of Lundey and Akurey, where visitors can see them nesting on the rocks and bobbing in the water.

Another island, Viðey, can easily be visited throughout the year by boat, with tickets included on the Reykjavík City Card. It is home to the Yoko Ono Peace Tower.

Sea-angling is also popular in Faxaflói, and it is possible to rent a rod and fish from Reykjavík Harbour.

Faxaflói Bay from Reykjavík

Faxaflói Bay is a beautiful feature of Iceland’s capital, visible from much of the city. Many of Reykjavík’s greatest landmarks have it as their backdrop, as they hug the coastline.

Harpa Concert Hall, for example, is an incredible feat of modern architecture that juts out into the water. The Sun Voyager is a popular statue that also looks out to the sea.

In decent weather, visitors can see some of Iceland’s most beautiful nature across Faxaflói. Mount Esjan is the most dominant feature, but when it is especially clear, it is possible to see the Reykjanes and Snӕfellsnes Peninsulas.

Harpa is Rekjavík’s premier concert hall and conference centre. Opened in 2011, its design was a collaboration between Danish-Icelandic artist Ólafur Elíasson, and the Danish firm Henning Larsen Architects. Today, it is a cultural centre of Reykjavík and one of the city’s most iconic landmarks.

History

The idea for a purpose-built concert hall in Reykjavík had been tossed around since the 1880s, but it wasn't until this millennium that it began to gain traction. Construction finally began in 2007, with Icelanders as blissfully unaware as the rest of us as to the problems that year would bring.

The wake of the financial crash of 2008 hit Iceland far harder than most other countries; its banks far overstretched themselves across Europe and ended up heavily indebting the people when they collapsed.

The future of Iceland’s economy was uncertain, especially when the government declared they would not bail out the banks nor pay off their debts, much to the chagrin of countries like the Netherlands and the UK.

In this tumultuous period, Harpa was left partially constructed, with no funds to finish it. The Icelandic populace was divided between having a half-finished construction site facing their downtown—a humiliating reminder of their country’s financial state—or spending money no-one was sure they had.

The Icelandic government, however, decided that it was the only building in the country that warranted being raised, in spite of the dubious future of the economy, and fully financed its completion.

When the European Court of Justice ruled that Iceland did not have to bend to the will of its debtors, the country was united in supporting it.

Architecture

Harpa won the prestigious Mies van de Rohe award in 2013, otherwise known as the European Prize for Contemporary Architecture, and is featured heavily in any tour of the city. Its structure is beautiful and unique; it has a facade of 714 glass panels, all of which are a different shape and built with an LED light that allows for shows whenever the sky is dark.

Ólafur Elíasson is world-renowned for his large-scale installation art, and for the influences he draws from the natural world. This is clearly exhibited in Harpa. The building reflects the basalt landscapes of Iceland and the dark-coloured glass creates beautiful effects with the natural light. Considering the midnight sun and aurora borealis, this can be quite spectacular.

Studio Olafur Eliasson employs 90 people, from architects to graphic designers, craftsmen to art historians. Based in Berlin, they work across the world, and are well-known for works such as London's 2007 Serpentine Gallery Pavillion and the annual event Life is Space.

Henning Larsen Architects are similarly successful. They have collaborated on the construction of dozens of buildings in over twenty countries, such as the Copenhagen Opera House and Uppsala Concert Hall in Sweden. They are currently working on the creation of thirteen buildings around the world, many of which they scored the opportunity to work on due to their competition-winning designs.

Harpa Today

Today, Harpa is one of the jewels in Reykjavík’s crown. The hall hosts exhibitions, concerts, cultural events, meetings, and festivals such as Airwaves, Sónar and the Reykjavík Fashion Festival. Home of the Icelandic Symphony Orchestra and the offices of the Icelandic Opera, it is a centre of culture in Iceland’s capital.

Many internationally known artists from around the world have performed here, including people such as Eddie Izzard and Cyndi Lauper. It also regularly showcases native talent, such as Björk and Of Monsters and Men.

Below, you can see a video showing Harpa's construction: