Hofudstodin Art and Culture Center opened in January 2022 and is the permanent home of the Chromo Sapiens Art Installation, a large art piece made entirely from colored synthetic hair.
The center sits inside a row of old barracks on the edge of Ellidaardalur Valley, about 5 miles (8 kilometers) east of downtown Reykjavik. While many visitors arrive by rental car, it’s also easy to reach by Reykjavik City buses or by bike using the scenic paths through Ellidaardalur Valley.
After your visit, you can take a break at the on-site cafe, browse the design shop, enjoy a walk through Ellidaardalur, or pair your trip with a stop at the nearby Arbaer Open Air Museum.
Read on to learn everything you need to know before your visit!
Key Takeaways
-
Hofudstodin is a permanent art and culture center in Reykjavik's Ellidaardalur Valley that houses Chromo Sapiens, a major work by Icelandic artist Shoplifter.
-
Chromo Sapiens debuted at the Icelandic Pavilion of the 2019 Venice Biennale and is built from synthetic hair extensions arranged in three connected caves.
-
The three chambers are named Primal Opus (dark and earthy), Astral Gloria (bright neon), and Opium Natura (soft white and pastel), each with a soundscape by Icelandic band HAM.
-
The center sits about 5 miles (8 kilometers) east of downtown Reykjavik, around a 10-minute drive.
-
The building is a set of World War II-era barracks originally built in Hvalfjordur Fjord, later moved to Ellidaardalur Valley, where they served as potato nurseries for decades.
-
Hofudstodin includes an on-site cafe and bar, a design shop, free parking, and full wheelchair access.
Location and Getting To Hofudstodin
Hofudstodin sits at Rafstodvarvegur 1a in eastern Reykjavik, near Ellidaardalur Valley and a short drive from central Reykjavik. The drive takes around 10 minutes, and you can find the exact directions to Hofudstodin on Google Maps. Here are the easiest ways of getting there:
-
Rental car - Driving is the easiest way to reach Hofudstodin, especially for travelers doing self-drive tours around Iceland. Drive east on Vesturlandsvegur (Route 1), then turn right just before the N1 gas station. Take the next two left turns, and you’ll arrive at the parking lot.
-
Public bus (Straeto) - Take bus number 15 or 16 from downtown Reykjavik. Set your destination to Rafstodvarvegur in Google Maps or the Straeto app, and the route will give you the right stop. The walk from the bus stop to the front door only takes a few minutes.
Visiting Hofudstodin: Hours, Tickets, and Facilities
Hofudstodin is open year-round. Weekday hours run from 12:00 PM to 6:00 PM, and weekend hours run from 11:00 AM to 5:00 PM. Hours can shift on public holidays, so check the official website before your visit.
Chromo Sapiens entrance tickets can be booked in advance and cost the following:
-
Adult tickets: 2,250 ISK (~18 USD)
-
Seniors aged 67 and over: 1,650 ISK (~13 USD)
-
Youth aged 12–17: 1,450 ISK (~12 USD)
-
Children aged 5–11: 650 ISK (~5 USD)
-
Infants aged 4 and under: Free
The exhibition is suitable for all ages, and pre-booking tickets is recommended, especially in summer and on cruise ship days, when group visits can fill the schedule.
Inside the Chromo Sapiens Installation at Hofudstodin
Chromo Sapiens is a large immersive installation made from brightly colored synthetic hair, the signature material of Icelandic artist Shoplifter. It first appeared at the Icelandic Pavilion of the 2019 Venice Biennale.
The name plays on Homo sapiens, with the Greek word for color, “chromo,” added in front.
The installation leads you through three cave-like spaces filled with color, texture, and sound. You can touch the soft hair-covered walls, sit on the cushions, and move through the experience at your own pace. Most visits take around 30 to 45 minutes.
-
Primal Opus: The first cave is dark and earthy, with deep brown and black hair mixed with flashes of neon color. Its low soundscape gives the room a quieter, more enclosed atmosphere.
-
Astral Gloria: The second and largest cave is the brightest space, with neon hair tufts in pink, green, blue, and yellow hanging from the high ceiling. This room has louder, layered music and is where many visitors spend the most time.
-
Opium Natura: The final cave shifts into softer whites, creams, and pale pastel tones. After the brightness of Astral Gloria, the calmer colors and quieter soundscape create a gentle ending to the installation.
Meet Shoplifter, the Artist Behind Chromo Sapiens
Hrafnhildur Arnardóttir, known professionally as Shoplifter, is one of Iceland's leading contemporary artists. She was born in Reykjavik in 1969 and now lives and works in New York.
Her stage name came from a misheard introduction in the 1990s. Someone thought she said "Shoplifter" when she gave her real name, and the joke stuck. She kept it because it stopped her work from feeling too serious.
Shoplifter works almost entirely with hair, both real and synthetic, building sculptures, wall pieces, and large installations. Her work explores beauty, identity, fashion, and humor in playful ways.
She represented Iceland at the Venice Biennale in 2019 with Chromo Sapiens. Her art has also been shown at MoMA in New York, ARoS in Denmark, Kiasma in Finland, and the Walt Disney Concert Hall in Los Angeles. She opened Hofudstodin in 2022 with cultural entrepreneur Lilja Baldursdottir.
Cafe and Bar at Hofudstodin
After your installation visit, the on-site cafe and bar make a relaxing place to stop. You can order coffee, tea, a light snack, or a cold drink, and take a seat at one of the indoor tables or out on the large patio.
On warm days, take your drink outside and enjoy the patio views over Ellidaardalur Valley. You can hear the Ellidaa River running below, and children often play on the grass nearby. The cafe is also open to those who aren't visiting the installation, so it works as a quick stop on its own.
The Design Shop at Hofudstodin
Right next to the cafe, the design shop gives you a closer look at Shoplifter’s playful, color-filled world. The shelves feature products created by the artist and her brand collaborations, with items ranging from small souvenirs and prints to home pieces, clothing, and design objects.
It’s a good stop after seeing Chromo Sapiens, since many pieces reflect the same bright, hair-inspired style found inside the installation. You can pick up an easy-to-pack keepsake, browse Icelandic design with a bold contemporary twist, or simply enjoy the shop as an extension of the artwork itself.
Make Your Own Souvenir at Hofudstodin
Hofudstodin’s Create Your Own Souvenir workshop lets you make a small art piece using leftover materials from Shoplifter’s studio. It’s a relaxed add-on after the Chromo Sapiens installation, suitable for both kids and adults, with no art skills needed.
The workshop is available every day except Saturday. Weekday slots run from 12:00 PM to 6:00 PM, and Sunday slots run from 11:00 AM to 5:00 PM. Pre-booking is required.
Hosting Events and Private Bookings at Hofudstodin
Hofudstodin is also available for private events. The team rents out the space for weddings, receptions, corporate gatherings, birthday parties, and other special occasions throughout the year.
The setting makes for a memorable backdrop. Your guests can walk through the Chromo Sapiens installation, enjoy the cafe and patio, and have the whole space mostly to themselves. Group visits with guided tours, happy hour packages, and soup-and-installation bookings are also offered.
Best Things To Do Near Hofudstodin in Reykjavik
Hofudstodin is easy to combine with several nearby Reykjavik attractions, especially if you’re exploring the city by rental car or following a self-drive tour around the Capital Region.
-
Ellidaardalur Valley: Walk or bike through one of Reykjavik’s largest green spaces, known for riverside trails, small waterfalls, and quiet forest paths.
-
Arbaer Open Air Museum: Explore historic Icelandic turf houses, old barracks, and traditional buildings that showcase everyday life in Reykjavik’s past.
-
Ellidaarstod Power Station: Visit Reykjavik’s first hydroelectric power station, now home to a small exhibition on Iceland’s renewable energy history.
-
Arbaejarlaug Swimming Pool: Relax in a local geothermal pool overlooking the valley. It’s a good option after walking around Ellidaardalur Valley.
-
Hlollabatar: Stop for a quick Icelandic-style sub sandwich after your visit.
-
Silli Kokkur: Try burgers and Icelandic street food made with local ingredients at this family-run restaurant. Reserve your table here.
-
Reykjavik Art Museum: Continue exploring the best museums in Reykjavik with rotating exhibitions and Icelandic modern art downtown.
Plan Your Visit To Hofudstodin in Reykjavik
Hofudstodin offers a different side of Reykjavik, combining contemporary Icelandic art with the quiet surroundings of Ellidaardalur Valley. The immersive Chromo Sapiens installation makes it one of the city's most unusual cultural attractions, especially for travelers looking beyond the typical downtown museum stops.
Travelers drawn to Iceland's creative side can browse our wider lineup of culture tours and museum and exhibition tours. Reykjavik walking tours pair naturally with an art-focused day, while city break packages make it easy to book a longer stay in the capital. However you plan your visit, a stop at Hofudstodin adds a creative, colorful chapter to any Reykjavik trip.
